Route 138 towards Charlevoix is one of the most beautiful roads in Quebec. Not for its speed. Not for its layout. For what it offers to see: the river on the right, the mountains gradually appearing on the left, the villages that follow one another with their churches and white houses.

This guide offers a full day starting from Quebec City, with a few chosen stops and a return late in the evening. Enough to understand why Charlevoix is one of Quebec's most beloved regions. Not enough to see it all. That's intentional.

Departure from Quebec City: 8 a.m., Carrera Café

An espresso before hitting the road. It's the ritual. Not because you won't find coffee along the way, but because starting with a good coffee changes how you approach the first hours. Carrera Café opens early. They are waiting for you there.

Take route 138 eastbound. Do not take the highway. The 138 runs along the river right from the exit of Beauport and offers views the highway will never provide. Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré is the first major possible stop, with its basilica that surprises by its size in this rural landscape.

Baie-Saint-Paul: the heart of Charlevoix, 10:30 a.m.

Baie-Saint-Paul is the artistic capital of Charlevoix. The galleries number in the dozens. The artists who chose to settle there have transformed this town of 7,000 inhabitants into one of the most active cultural centers in the province.

Walk down the main street. Galleries usually open around 10 a.m. Some have accessible works, others are more specialized. The goal is not to buy. It's to understand why so many artists chose this landscape.

Coffee in Baie-Saint-Paul: several interesting spots in the center. Take time for a break before continuing east.

La Malbaie: lunch with a view, 12:30 p.m.

La Malbaie is the main town of Charlevoix. It has a view of the river that widens here until it looks like an inland sea. The Manoir Richelieu has overlooked the shore for a century. You don’t need to stay there to enjoy the terrace at noon.

Lunch in La Malbaie deserves choosing a table with a view. Charlevoix products: cheeses, cured meats, plateau vegetables, local lamb. Charlevoix cuisine is one of Quebec’s best regional cuisines, and it tastes better on site.

Return via the Chemin des Crans, 3 p.m.

For the return, take the road that climbs the Charlevoix plateau rather than staying on the 138. The views of the river from the heights are different from those at the roadside. Wider, more impressive.

Stop by Saint-Urbain if you have time. The Hautes-Gorges park, about twenty minutes north, is one of the wildest landscapes accessible by car in Quebec. Even a quick stop at the entrance is worth the detour.

Return to Quebec City around 6:30 p.m. Last drink at Carrera Café if the day still left you something. Or continue in the neighborhood. Charlevoix will have stayed with you somewhere.